Tuesday, March 17, 2009

Kemaman, Malaysia


Malaysia is physically divided across two land masses. Most is on the Malay Peninsula but East Malaysia is on the northern part of Borneo. Kemaman is on the peninsula portion, along the coast of the South China Sea. The economy is based largely on petroleum and oil.
 
We were going to meet up with another couple to see what we could see, but he was ill so Mel and I headed out on our own. There was the usual market on the pier, which we looked at a bit, before boarding a shuttle bus into the town. It was raining a bit but by the time we reached town, it was a downpour. The guide on the bus told us that they only get 2 cruise ships into port each year, so the entire town was aware of our arrival and setting up a special greeting for us. We were dropped off in a parking lot where they had set up yet another market as well as a stage and several tents with chairs to view the ceremony. They did a typical Malaysian wedding for us....in the pouring rain. All the cruise folks were bunched under the tents while the poor performers were marching to the stage in the rain. The costumes were very colorful and beautiful. Sad to see them soaking wet.
 
We asked a couple we knew from our table if they'd like to join us in search of a batik factory. I'd never found one in Indonesia, so today was the day. One was included in one of the HAL tours, so I knew there was one near by. We asked where we could find a taxi and were pointed in the same direction by several different people. I had the name of the village where the factory was, given to me by our port lecturer. She'd written Cherating Village. I asked the bus guide to write it in their language. She wrote Cherating Batik. We cracked up.
 
We headed in the direction indicated to find a taxi, which took us thru the local market. We saw dozens of types of fish, some really large with their heads cut off, dripping blood into a bucket on the ground. The next area was full of beef and chicken, being cut on the old stone tables. Further on was the vegetable market, with everything stacked neatly in rows. There were also a number of spices available. The next area was the merchandise market where they had a lot of batik fabric and clothing. I bought a couple of pieces of batik then we finally found a taxi dispatch area. We once again had a driver who could say "I speak English". Maybe they just don't know the English word for cannot? We asked to be taken to Chetering Batik and off we went. The countryside looked a lot like Central and South America. Not very many modern buildings, but very good roads.
 
We reached Chetering and were taken to a store that said "Batik Showroom". We looked around a bit, but everything was priced very high. Turned out, this is a resort village and that was just a store. Our driver spoke to someone across the street who was from San Diego or some such place. He told him where the factory really was, another 30 minutes away. I think I was the only one of our group of 4 who really wanted to go, but I insisted, so off we went again! Seemed sad to be so close and not go.
 
We drove into a parking lot with several tour buses. We knew we were in the right place. In the back of a large warehouse type building was an area where they were producing hand made batik fabrics. There were cups of dye, vats of wax and patterns hanging on the wall. It was exactly what I'd wanted to see, finally! While I was shopping the other couple when to get something to eat. She's diabetic and needed lunch. They returned to report that the cook was still asleep so they needed to get back to town for food. I did speed shopping in that store! I was in such a hurry that an item I'd decided not to buy ended up in my bag, but everything was so inexpensive that it was OK. I did get 2 meters of the fabric I'd seen them make while there. Mission complete!
 
Back in town we asked where the restaurants are. We were pointed in a direction in back of the market. We'd been told by the port lecturer that they have restaurants where you serve yourself, then pay when you're done, according to how much you'd eaten. We found one of those restaurants. It was the most disgusting meal we've had to date. YUCK!!! Amazing that none of us got sick. We first looked around for a table. Some of the local men got up so we could use their table, ordering the owner to clean it first. The food was in metal containers like other buffets. Mel chose a large squid and a drumstick. I took a smaller squid, a few shrimp, some bean sprouts and 2 slices of pineapple. (Mel had brought his lunch from the ship.) They appeared to all be cooked in the same type of sauce. The shrimp was so dry, it was inedible. I dropped a piece on the floor and even the cat wouldn't eat it. It was a scrawny kitten that had been licking my foot. The pineapple would have been good without the sauce. The squid, I can't even say...Mel bit into his and it had some things sticking out of it. The bean sprouts were good. The kitten loved the piece of chicken I gave to  it. The owner came and counted the shrimp heads (yes, we had to remove the skins and heads) and bones and charged us $2. It wasn't even worth that!!! Guess it was an interesting experience and a good story.
 
Back at the pier it was pouring rain again. We went under the tents where there were still a few vendors set up. Bought more batik then made a run for the ship. It was a very wet but interesting day. As the ship left the pier, it left a trail of clear water where all the oil and scum was displaced. Pretty dirty port. Good to get out to sea again.

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